Phillip Lim has a green thumb and a New Yorker's limited real estate. At
his Manhattan apartment, he's coaxed a full garden into bloom on his
fire escape. "A Charlie Brown garden," he called it. Charlie may never
win, but Lim did, with a strong collection this time around.
The
floral influence was everywhere—even in the
intarsia'd leopard prints, which on inspection turned out to be made of
flowers, too—but it was mixed with a clean, palate-cleansing blankness
and rigor. "Flutility" was Lim's word for it. The utility came through
in khaki Mao suits of tapered pants and strict, high-buttoning tops, but
their stringency was tempered by appliquéd raffia blossoms. The
cocooning shape of skirts was inspired by petals, but they came not in
soft fabrics but laminated pigskin, which had the oil-slick feel of hot
pavement. Resort may be a vacationer's collection, but Lim's girls are
urbanites through and through. "It's a pseudo vacation," he said. "Our
make-believe staycation. How do you take a vacation when you're in the
studio all night?"
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